Haute Densite Pouilly Fume, Chateau de Tracy

Château de Tracy has been run by the same family since the 14th century. In 1586, it was united with the Stutts, a Scottish noble family, when Françoise Stutt married Françoise de Bar who had as a dowry the seigneury of Tracy. Fast forward nearly 400 years and at the beginning of the 1950s Jacqueline de Tracy married the Comte Alain d’Assay. Today it is their daughter, Juliette d’Assay who manages the estate.

The 33 hectares of vineyards are on the slopes around the Château itself (a flint terroir) and those of Vilmoy, a few kilometres away from Pouilly-sur-Loire (Kimmeridgian limestone terroir). To the north of the Pouilly Fumé area, on the hillsides which overlook the Loire, the Château de Tracy vineyard extends from “Tracy hill” to the “Champs de Cris” plateau.

The Haute Densite or  “High Density” come from a small plot planted on the most beautiful limestone soils of Château de Tracy. Here the vines are planted at high density: 17,000 vines per hectare; the standard density for the appellation is 7,000 vines per hectare. Competition between the vines is therefore greater. As each plant has to draw its reserves from deep within the soil, the roots plunge more deep, increasing consequently the contact with the stone (with more terroir effect on the wine). Vigorous growth is controlled and the plants are healthier.

There is a specific pruning regime for the vines, the result of rigorous research and intensive work in the veinyard, such as disbudding and leaf-thinning. The vegetation is therefore less dense, far less vulnerable to disease and each plant bears a maximum of two or three bunches, which is equivalent to 1 plant producing 1 glass of wine. Not surprisingly the grapes are very concentrated with great complexity and the resulting wine is matured in wooden casks for 9 months with regular stirring of the lees.

The Haute Densite therefore represents the essence of Pouilly Fume and the pinnacle of Sauvignon Blanc. It is produced in very small quantities,with only 2,500 bottles in 2017 for example. It is not inexpensive, but well worth the investment and will repay careful cellaring for ten years or even more.

Appearance: Pale yellow with golden highlights.

The nose: Rich and complex, it opens on aromas of pear, eucalyptus, licorice, and rare wooden essences. After a short time in the glass, some “sunny flavours” appear: peach, fresh pineapple, mango, sweet grapefruit.

Palate: The first sensation is finess but vivacity. the attack is sharp, fleshy, developing citrus, vanilla aromas and pepper.